Expedition Nature's Realm
Kevin Jeanes' Travel Diary

The Journey Begins: May 7, 2007

The Naperville departure took place around 8:00 A.M. We drove across Illinois and all the way through Iowa. Just before we reached Omaha we were detoured around the interstate through the town of Loveland, IA. Major flooding had occurred as a result of heavy precipitation and runoff into the James River. Local residents were even asked to evacuate their homes at 3:00 A.M. the previous morning. Several cars were stranded in a parking lot under water while the water level reached the gas pumps at a local gas station. I could actually smell the oil and gasoline that infested the water in a few areas. The glimmer off the water looked beautiful even the town residents must have been devastated. We see these natural disasters, and no matter the scale, they always hold an inescapable beauty through the devastation. I couldn't imagine what it would be like to have to leave your flooded home.

From Loveland we made our way to Vermillion, SD. There I captured a beautiful sunset over the flat plains of eastern South Dakota. The light refracted off the sky and created some of the most stunning colors the skies embrace. Our travels for the day ended a few hours later where we stayed the night in Mitchell, SD. Once the day was done I knew it was going to be the spontaneity that makes this trip successful.

Badlands Arrival: May 8, 2007

After driving for 14 hours yesterday I figured it would be a good idea to sleep in for the measly 3 hour trip to the Badlands. I arrived around 1:30 P.M. and was immediately in awe by the gorgeous scenery. I could see the sedimentary rock far before arrival, but up close it's completely different. The vast landscape is almost too overwhelming. It's far too easy to realize how minuscule we are and just what a short time our species has spent on this Earth. To think the entire area was under a giant body of water 75 million years ago. The remnants... unbelievable eroded sedimentary rock layers that were deposited approximately 37-26 Ma. Perhaps the most phenomenal aspect of the rock are the layers and stripe like appearances. The Badlands were also covered with areas of miniature buttes overlayed with grass on top. It almost appeared as if it should be a golf course. I found my way beyond the Badlands rocks into the backcountry. There we found bison, prairie dogs, and several deer. Seeing a bison up close for the

first time is a great experience for any person. Many don't think twice about it, but once you see one you tend to think that most people never have the opportunity. On a side note... if you're ever in a national park... do realize there are speed limit signs posted... too bad no one told me that beforehand. The backcountry had plenty of tall sedimentary mounds. The tallest mound in sight provided an incredible sunrise and sunset over the Badlands rock and grassy scenery. Being able to look around 360 degrees to see miles upon miles is something to be taken in and reflected upon. The entire scenery in the park is all too surreal...everything seems almost fake.

Badlands Departure: May 9, 2007

The morning for me began around 4:30 A.M. I awoke to wait and see the sunrise on the same peak we witnessed. It seemed to get bitterly colder as the light stretched across the landscape. That first glimpse of the sun is always the greatest. After the sunrise came hours of hiking through the grasslands, witnessing the prairie dogs and bison. One last trip through the sedimentary rock of the Badlands and a few trails, then it was back on the road. After being in the sun and hiking all morning, the exhaustion was kicking in. On top of that I realized i was beginning to develop pink eye in both eyes as well as a bad cold. The best idea would be to make the trip a little shorter today and longer tomorrow. As we traveled into Wyoming, storm cells began to pop up near Rapid City, SD. About 50 miles in the state, we could see the cell forming. It was incredible to look so far into the distance and still see a formation of a thunderstorm. I could even see hail as it fell from the base of the cloud. After stopping to look at the storm, we traveled to Gillette, WY to spend the night. Upon arrival...over 125 miles away... I could still see the dissipated anvil of the same storm system.

A Brisk Yellowstone: May 10, 2007

Another day of travel lay ahead, and waking up with two infected pink eyes was not the best way to start it. But the day went on with no troubles. As we approached the mountains the land seemed to stretch longer and longer in every direction. We stopped upon a small hill to overlook the mountains and see the huge open space of land. Trees were extremely scarce and the grass was overrun by shrubs. The land on the eastern part of the rockies is so dry and resembles very similar characteristics to a desert. Dust was flying everywhere and the air was not helping my sickness. Dryness aside, I got to experience yet another gorgeous scenery. The mountains looked insignificant in size as they extended across the horizon, but the snow on top and surrounding clouds said differently.

Once we finally got to Yellowstone in the late evening, it really struck me. The scale of the park is so incredible. So many trees smothered the mountain sides and the wildlife was everywhere. Buffalo and Elk carelessly cross the roads throughout the entire park. Yellowstone Lake was still frozen, and I was fortunate enough to catch the glimpse just as the sun was setting. To top that off, thermal geysers released steam from the ground just next to the shore. The sights were just stunning. There was a chill to the air, and a foul stench of sulfur. The coldness helped enhance the visual appearance of the steam emitting from the surface. After witnessing nature at its finest, other aspects start to be placed into perspective. To think some of these mountains are around 2 million years old. To think how small we are and what a short time period we have on this Earth. Nature is more than just animals and trees. It is a representation of the coexistence of both living and nonliving things that is Earth.

From Falls to Peak: May 11, 2007

The following morning the sun shined its beauty over the entire park. The mountains cast their shadows over the dark green valleys below. The air was pure and clean; something Chicago does not have to offer. My journey began at the Tower Falls. The water lunged over a cliff more than 100 feet high. I viewed the fall from above before hiking down to the base. Walking along the Tower Creek was incredible. As we approached the base, water surged around rocks and heavy logs. The cleanliness of the air I smelled earlier began to become infested with the stench of sulfur. The sulfur surrounded the entire valley, and was most potent at the very bottom. Rotten eggs are the only two words I can use to describe the odor. At the base of the fall, the sound of the water echoed throughout the valley walls. I had never seen such a huge water fall before. The energy and force within the continuous flow of water was fascinating. The temperature began to cool down at a rapid pace the closer I got to the fall. Mist and rainbows covered the valley floor. The next stop would be exactly what I wanted to take with me upon my Yellowstone departure.

Just north of the Tower Falls near Phantom Lake we spotted a black bear with her two cubs. The cubs were just over a year old. They were climbing around logs and eating the surrounding grass. In one year their mother will abandon them to search for another male and let them fend for themselves. I was so excited to finally see a bear. To my surprise they looked completely innocent and harmless... but I decided to watch from a distance and not put that judgment to test, which is a strict rule of the park.

Next we headed west to Bunsen Peak. The peak is 8,564 feet above sea level. The hike took two hours to reach the top. The base of the eroded dacite volcano had many dead trees which appeared to have been the cause of heavy winds blowing them down. As we went higher the view only got better. Snow covered portions of the mountain. I could not get over how it was 80 degrees outside yet I was standing next to a tremendous pile of snow. I was sweating and really hot from all the hiking all day; snow was the perfect thing. Rubbing some of the snow on my sunburns was a great way to cool down. The high reflection (called albedo) of the rays off the snow is what keeps the snow from melting so quickly. Standing over the snow mounds was cooler, but the rays from the sun felt more intense as they reflected off the snow, a very strange feeling. The peak of the mountain was my second favorite site of the trip. I could see for miles upon miles in every direction. The craziness of it all is that I could probably only see a quarter of Yellowstone. A box full of memories of previous Bunsen explorers' journals and letters sat at the peak. I left a small journal entry. The hike down took another two hours. However going down was more difficult than the climb up... a rare occasion. Maybe going down the steeper portion of the mountain with loose hollow rock was a bad idea. I must have fallen on my butt twenty times. If I were to fall forward I would have rolled down about 1,000 feet over sharp rocks and through thick dead douglas fir trees. Some of those trees lay down like a spire. The thought of being impaled by one of those crossed my mind, so a few bruises on the can was acceptable. Five hours after the first step on Bunsen I returned to camp. Where a cold night in front of a fire under an incredible clear and starry night awaited.

The Ever Faithful, Old Faithful: May 12-13, 2007

Camping in Yellowstone was a real treat. Another night under the stars where your mind could expand to anything you wanted. The next morning I woke up in the very cold morning air. I had to go to the bathroom but decided to hold off and sleep in my warm sleeping bag for another hour; kind of pathetic. The day started off great. First stop was the Beryl hot spring. Steam blew across the ground thicker than ever in the brisk wind. As I approached the spring, I began to warm up. The average temperature of the water is right around the boiling point, about 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Once we left the Beryl spring we headed over a few water falls. Some of the rivers were completely surrounded by snow. It was beautiful. Everything looked as if it were from a postcard. The air had quickly warmed up as the day headed into the late morning hours, and the sight of snow was incredible.

The last stop was saved for the best, Old Faithful. At the park they actually can predict the time of the next eruption. That’s how faithful it is. On average it erupts every 90 minutes, so I got to witness it twice before it was time to hit the road again. The crowd gathered half-way around the massive geyser as it erupted. The scale of it was massive, yet it seemed so peaceful and quiet. The geyser rises to roughly 180 feet for for a few minutes before dwindling back down. I learned Old Faithful isn’t the largest geyser in Yellowstone. It’s only so popular because…well… it’s so faithful. Larger geysers may erupt sporadically and at any time.

After Old Faithful we hit the road yet again. A 24 hour car ride back to Charleston, Illinois: Roughly 1,530 miles, a trip well worth it.

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